I know it sounds kind of lame to use a carpenters level, tape measure, string, etc. to align a Vette with but it came out a LOT better than the last guy who used a really nice alignment machine. The front wheel camber was positive on one side and negative on the other. The front toe setting was ~3/8" in and the rear toe settings was ~1/8 out. No friggin' wonder the rear end felt squirlly.
I set the front toe to ~1/8" or less and the rear toe to ~1/16"

Based on my positive experience using basic tools, I'm going to spend a few dollars to purchase some alignment tools for my shop. I may never pay for an alignment again.
Another bonus was that while finding the "centerline", I found that my frame measures perfectly from corner to corner diagonally.

_______


Black on Black, 388/700R4/3.73

Also, Jaguar XJ-S -- Best Jaguar in Class Winner by Jaguar North America

And finally, my grandparent's 1972 Ford LTD ... Made cover of Ford Galaxy Magazine. To be displayed at Ford's 100 year Anniversary and eventually given to the original owners' great-great grandchild

References:

GM Service Manual

1980 Corvette Assembly Manual
http://www.corvettefaq.com

Four wheel alignment for Vettes (by Chris Teague) http://www.vettenet.org/align.html

VBP alignment specs (page 6 in 2002 catalog) http://www.stingray.nu/tips/alignment.htm

Do-It-Yourself Alignment (by Calvin Sanders) http://www.vtr.org/maintain/diy-alignment.html

Example of tools that I WANT. Longacre Racing Products, Inc. http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/catlist.asp?catid=5

Make adjustments in the following order:
Caster
Camber
Toe

1. I checked the floor surface in my shop to make sure it was level. (My floor was level) If not, you should shim up the four places that your tires will sit. Vinyl floor tiles are good to use because they will allow your tires to move easily while making adjustments to your suspension.

2. I verified that the air pressure in the tires was the same from side to side.

3. I checked out the height of my car vs. the specifications provided in my assembly manual. The front suspension is 95.2% of the "curb target". The rear suspension is 96.8% of the "curb target". (I had just replaced my 7-1/2" spring bolts with 10" bolts so that I could lower my rear end.)

4. I checked the caster with a carpenter style angle finder mounted to a home made fixture of 1/2" PVC pipe. It was barely good enough for repeatable results from side to side.

5. I checked the camber using a 24" level. I used electrical tape to hold two 1" PVC pipe couplings onto the level. The coupling allowed me to check the level on the surface of the rim from top of rim to bottom of rim. The web links describe how to decifer the results. The article written by Calvin Sanders explained this very well.

6. Locate Centerline. To do this, I located the corners of my frame by hanging a plumb bob from the corners of my frame (outside edge). I marked the exact location indicated by the plumb bob onto the floor. (I found the distance between these marks to be EXACTLY the same as those stated in my GM shop manual, 32-3/16" between the front frame rails and 45-5/8" between the rear frame rails). I also measured diagonally from the front corner mark to rear corner mark on each side to verify that the frame was square and thankfully, it was! 151 3/16" for both measurements) Place a mark onto the floor EXACTLY in between these marks (front of car and rear of car). These marks represent your "centerline". Pull a tight string over these marks / under the car, from the front to the back. Now hang the plumb bob over this string and mark this centerline onto the front and rear bumbers. You will reference these marks to set up the strings along the outside edge of your car.

7. On each side of the car I placed a jack stand about 2' past the rear bumper and about 2' past the front bumper. Tie a string between these jack stands at a height that is equal to the center of your wheels. Ultimately, you want the string to be any where within 6" of your wheels. For example, measuring 36" from the centerline mark on my car resulted in the string being about 2" away from the front and rear wheels.
Now you are ready to start checking and adjusting the toe adjustment on each of your four wheels by measuring from the string to the front and rear of each wheel using a precision ruler.

[Modified by MIKER, 8:46 PM 11/19/2002]
_______


Black on Black, 388/700R4/3.73

and MIKER, thanks for the references and more detailed explanations. I have printed them all out and am studying..... will return with questions! MJ


[Modified by MNJack, 11:07 PM 11/19/2002]
_______

68 International blue roadster
427 L36 4spd white top
Summit

I did the alignment on my own car, took some time and some homemade fixtures, just like miker, but it is do-able, just measure real close and follow instructions.

Andy

Also, Jaguar XJ-S -- Best Jaguar in Class Winner by Jaguar North America

And finally, my grandparent's 1972 Ford LTD ... Made cover of Ford Galaxy Magazine. To be displayed at Ford's 100 year Anniversary and eventually given to the original owners' great-great grandchild

Have any of you ever used one of these Caster / Camber Gauges? http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=131&catid;=5

The home made "grease sandwiches" look even better when compared to the price of these Aluminum Turn Plates which sell for $520 http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=150&catid;=5


_______


Black on Black, 388/700R4/3.73

quote:

---

...The Ford specs say toe is 1/16" to 7/16". That must be total toe. Anyone know?...

---

Even if you don't want to make any adjustments on your Vette, finding the center line, checking the frame measrements, suspension "Z" height, and ride height can be pretty interesting.
As WATTAC stated, it would be better to use the centerline based on the front and rear suspension for alignment purposes. Just for grins, compare it to the centerline found using the frame corners as reference.
_______


Black on Black, 388/700R4/3.73

quote:

---

...For toe I have built a precission rod with pointer to measure the center of the tire...

---

Another trick I've used in toe checking is my fishing rod. Make sure your rod
is straight, and place it along the outer edge of the front tire - half way up.
Sight down the rod with your eye, and adjust toe-in until both front tire edges
project to 'just outside' the edge of the rear tires. This is not an accurate
setting, but it gets you close - after doing steering work. Also, it's a quick
and easy way to check the current toe-in without crawling on the ground.

MNJ - I like the carpet/sheetmetal better than the grease. Less mess, and I
have the neccessary materials on-hand. Re-usable without cleanup, and
all you really need are 4 small pieces of carpet. Do you think the wife
will mind me using the bathroom throw rugs ? They are right next to the
shower curtain rod !!


[Modified by Daves_rusty_75, 11:07 AM 11/20/2002]
_______

Dave in NH
remover of rust - replacer of steel - maker of mugs

---1970---New girl on the block-------------------------1975---now just a donor
--

'75 L48 -- Edelbrock top end, straight dual exhaust, B+M trans kit in TH400, VBP adjustable strut rods, fiberglass rear bumper, chromed fuel door
'70 ??? -- solid frame with frame rail end repairs, great birdcage, decent fiberglass rear with some repairs
Too many rusty parts to list, but you can see some of them here:
Daves_rusty_75 website with pictures
If you are interested in "getting mugged" - email me - my address is in my profile.

I liked the idea of the mounting points being further apart which would presumably lessen any error due to attachment points. I projected a laser-line onto the gauge from the rear wheels to determine if they were in the same plane as the front wheels (they weren't) but it only took two iterations to set rear-toe/alignment.

They also sell a toe measurement adaptor (which I didn't buy) as I was going to make my own. I wimped-out and used a tape measure for now.

_______

Frank
'75 Coupe
Bunch of bikes

however, it is still not clear to me how the homemade castor and camber checking tools actually work. Sorry, I am just slow.

Also, I have no clue how to actually do any of the adjustments....

I do understand the grease sammich concept now! In fact, I may try to cut a circle for the top piece, connect it to the bottom piece thru the center of the circle, and measure off the degrees so I can see how far the front wheel are turned.

Does this tool have any merit? It is $9.99 from Harborfreight.... I know, I know.....

Safely get your vehicle back on the road after replacing struts, rack and pinion steering, or doing any type of front end work. Accurately restore the strut alignment to factory specs without expensive equipment.
Super strong magnet mounts on brake rotor, spindle or steering knuckle
Easy-to-read unbreakable bubble level
Camber settings from -3� to +3�

MJ

[Modified by MNJack, 10:01 PM 11/20/2002]
_______

68 International blue roadster
427 L36 4spd white top
Summit

quote:

---

Does this tool have any merit? It is $9.99 from Harborfreight.... I know, I know.....

---

Now, the toe gauge works fairly well.
_______

Chris

'69 4-Speed 383 Coupe

quote:

---

I have that caster camber gage and really like it. . .
This gage magnetically clamps to the front spindles but be carefull the magnet is too strong and chips itself when it grabs the spindle. . .

---

MNJack

quote:

---

Also, I have no clue how to actually do any of the adjustments....

---

silvervetteman

quote:

---

Let me butt in once more....

---

Also, Jaguar XJ-S -- Best Jaguar in Class Winner by Jaguar North America

And finally, my grandparent's 1972 Ford LTD ... Made cover of Ford Galaxy Magazine. To be displayed at Ford's 100 year Anniversary and eventually given to the original owners' great-great grandchild

quote:

---

...there already was a paint mark on the frame. Apparently, Grandpa or someone had used the same technique in the past.....

---

Norval, thanks for the explaination. It sounds like a quality tool. I'll shop around for the best price and order one!
_______


Black on Black, 388/700R4/3.73

Also, Jaguar XJ-S -- Best Jaguar in Class Winner by Jaguar North America

And finally, my grandparent's 1972 Ford LTD ... Made cover of Ford Galaxy Magazine. To be displayed at Ford's 100 year Anniversary and eventually given to the original owners' great-great grandchild

You need to make a trip to fort worth soon, the fountain is bricked, finish flagstone, paint pool and install the fountain . . . almost done.
_______

I just love Hooters

1974 two top car, L48, AC, PS/PB, TT & some temporary wheels, lots to come . . . Stay tuned!!

We can customize her, we have the technology. . .

Also, over the summer I took my wife's Prism for an alignment as it had developed a pull. The shop foreman showed me the print out and said it was set to factory specs, but he would take it for a ride. He was gone about 15 min ( we didn't see him pull it back into the shop before getting back to us) and he told us the car has a "radial pull". He told us the problem was with the left rear tire (it pulled left) and that when he switched the tire to the other side it then pulled right. I was suprised to see it have such an effect on the tracking of the car even when it was mounted on the rear. It was a pretty strong pull too!
_______

Isosceles
1979 L48 350TH
True duals and a custom tailored (thanks to my lovely wife) Windshield shade

http://home.earthlink.net/~isteelheart/vette/index.htm